October 24, 2021
We departed from Taha’a at 6:30 am, but our departure was met with some unexpected excitement. Overnight, a change in wind direction caused the anchor chain to become entangled around a coral head, which required us to spend some time carefully untangling the mess. Fortunately, we were able to free the chain without causing any damage.
From Taha’a, we had a clear view of Mount Otemanu, the highest and most recognizable mountain in Bora Bora. Although the two islands are only 20 nautical miles apart, it took us several hours to sail between them. Despite the earlier challenges with the anchor, our passage out of the pass was smooth, and we enjoyed a pleasant breeze as we made our way to Bora Bora. When we arrived at the entrance to the lagoon, the weather was perfect, 8knots wind, clear skies and calm waters. We entered the pass under sail, only with the engine on standby for safety, encountering no strong currents or waves.
Bora Bora is a tropical paradise that invokes images of crystal-clear turquoise waters, powdery white sand beaches, and swaying palm trees. The island is a postcard-perfect island always referred to as an idyllic escape from the stresses of modern life and it is a popular destination for honeymooners. With all that in mind, you can imagine that my expectations were really high.
The good news is that Bora Bora did not disappoint. As we sailed in, I couldn’t help but think, “Yes, we did it! Dreams really do come true.” Bora Bora had been on our list of must-visit destinations for our itinerary with Happy Days, even before we knew we would have to navigate a pandemic. So, despite all the changes to our original plan, I was thrilled that we had made it to this beautiful island.
In recent years, the increasing popularity of Bora Bora as a boating destination has led to some problems with boats staying in the lagoon for extended periods, causing local problems. So recently, there are new regulations for boats anchoring in the lagoon. The good thing is there have been some new bouys installed and places for anchoring are restricted with the intention of protecting the corals, the bad news is that it seems to be a monopoly of a few people controlling the moorings.
We had plan to arrived to the Yacht Club, as Cedric did remembered the place from his previous trips. However, all the available buoys were taken, so we continued north until we found a suitable anchorage in a calm bay. Unfortunately, we discovered that there was no convenient location to leave our dinghy when we went ashore. This meant we had to travel a significant distance to reach the Yacht Club to dock the dinghy. At times, the wind and waves would make the journey challenging, leaving us drenched on the way to shore or at night on the way back.
Although we didn’t believe anything was broken, my hand was still causing me considerable pain. As soon as we reached land, we began searching for a doctor. It took a bit of effort, but we were eventually able to find a physician who could see me on short notice. To my surprise, she was a Spanish female doctor, which made communication much easier, and she provided excellent care.
The doctor was concerned about the possibility of a more serious injury and suggested a full medical examination, including X-rays and blood tests. However, I explained that we were only staying on the island for a few days, and my primary concern was ensuring that my hand would be functional for the upcoming crossing. She diagnosed me with tendonitis and prescribed anti-inflammatory medication and a brace for the next 10 to 14 days.
Although the treatment was uncomfortable and painful, I was relieved to have a diagnosis and a plan for recovery. Unfortunately, it did limit our ability to take some of the walks we had planned, specially the climb to the most iconic mount of Bora Bora – Mount Otemanu. Who knows, maybe we are just keeping for our next visit.
Despite the setback with my hand, we were determined to make the most of our time on this super paradise island. We enjoyed some walks around the island, breathtaking snorkeling with manta rays, and visited the artisanal market. Of course, we also indulged in some delicious French cuisine, including plenty of ice cream. One place, in particular, had fantastic ice cream, free Wi-Fi, and air conditioning, so it became our de facto office. We spent time there preparing documents for our upcoming trips to Fiji and Australia.
Walks and landscapes
In the video, you can see some of the magnificent views we enjoyed.
We also visited the Bloody Mary’s bar and restaurant. A must-see attraction for visitors and locals as many celebrities have been there. Well we won’t make it to the list, but it was nice to see.
Visit of historical family site
Well, here is a question for you. Is the passion of being a sailor something that you can inherit? or not?.
It’s an interesting thought. I always thought Cedric got his love for sailing from his dad. He started sailing as a young adult, encouraged by his father, and his passion grew from there. But it turns out that he has sailor’s blood on his mom’s side too! His grand-uncle was Alain Gerbault, a French sailor, writer, and tennis champion who completed a solo circumnavigation of the world.
We learned that Alain Gerbault’s tomb is in Vaitape, Bora Bora, and we set out to find it. However, it wasn’t an easy task. The tomb was originally on the waterfront, but in recent years a development and port facilities were constructed, so his tomb is now located on the side of a market building. We had to go to the police and town hall to ask for directions, but eventually, we found it.
Swimming with Mantas, Rays and Sharks.
You haven’t trully been in Bora Bora until you have swum with Mantas. Or at least that is what all maketing promotions tell you. The island’s lagoon is a natural wonder, teeming with marine life such as colorful fish, vibrant coral reefs, and of course, Mantas and sharks.
But it’s not just about the underwater world – visitors can also enjoy paddleboarding, or simply relax on the beach and soak up the sun. The island’s luxury resorts offer world-class amenities, including overwater bungalows with stunning views of the lagoon, and the island’s warm and friendly locals add to the overall sense of blissful tranquility.
I had heard so much about Manta Rays in Bora Bora that I was eager to see them for myself. Swimming with them was an exceptional experience, and they were even larger than I had imagined.
We had previously seen Manta Rays in Galapagos, but we couldn’t swim with them. We also saw some in Marquesas, but they were smaller with a span of around 3m. However, the ones we saw in Bora Bora were exceptional, with a span of at least 5m, especially the females which are bigger than males.
We arrived early in the morning at a cleaning station near a luxurious resort. The cleaning station was a 20m deep channel with coral on both sides. We had done our research and knew that this was the perfect spot to snorkel with the mantas before all the diver groups arrived. We had anchored our boat the night before just further out from one of the majestic Bora bora lagoon hotel. I’m sure we are in the pictures of some of the guests as their their suites are nice bungalow over the water. No doubt a nice sailboat alone with a beautiful sunset in the back could make a really nice shoot.
In the morining we went to the cleaning station before all the diver groups arrived. We were just snorkelling and swimming with them. Truly magical. They come to this channel where small fish clean them. So when the divers arrived at one end of the 20m channel and went in the water the mantas started swimming opposite direction of them. Now the mantas were coming straight at us, we can say that we had a really really closed look. Amazing, their moves were so slow and graceful that it was like dancing with them.
Another day, we visited a different site with shallow water and an abundance of marine life, including stingrays and sharks. We saw a few boats with people swimming around, so we decided to wait until they left. When we got into the water, a couple of stingrays came close to us, and we started swimming with them. However, the visibility was poor due to the rain. Cedric went back to the dinghy, and I kept swimming along. Suddenly, a black tip shark passed by my side, which was fine. I kept swimming and saw another stingray, but then I noticed that five sharks were following me and getting too close for comfort. I suspected that they might be waiting for food, and later found out that they are fed by tour groups to ensure they return to the site. It didn’t feel safe to stay there any longer, so I went back to the dinghy. Although we had seen the same type of sharks in Gambier before, they had never come that close in pack.
Papers, papers and more papers
This story is getting a bit more complex. I’ll try to summarise.
- We need to be in Australia before December 1st, because that’s the start of the hurricane season in the southern Hemisphere and it would be too risky to be at sea after that.
- We are missing around 3200nm (~6000) kilometers
- although there is 1000 islands in between Bora Bora and Australia, the only one open for yachts is Fiji
- Permit to enter Fiji has to be process with an agent so we started the process in September.
Unfortunately, we have hit a bump in the road on our journey to Fiji.
The Fijian government has denied our entry permit due to the type of COVID test we took in Bora Bora. Apparently, they only accept PCR tests, but in Bora Bora, the law has recently changed so that PCR tests are reserved for those with symptoms. As regular travelers, we were only offered a rapid antigen test (RAT), and even if we wanted to pay for a PCR test, it wasn’t an option. To make matters worse, the Fijian agent advised us to fake symptoms and go to a medical center to get a PCR test. However, we did not feel comfortable with that suggestion at all. Even the Spanish doctor who treated my hand could not help us get a PCR test “legally”.
Now we are left with two options. We can either stay in Bora Bora for a few extra days before leaving and heading straight to our next destination, or we can apply for a transit permit from the Fijian government. While this permit would still be expensive, it would allow us to stop, restock on water and fuel, and continue our journey. Perhaps, by the time we arrive, the rules will have changed, and we’ll be able to step foot on land.
Where next?
Well after waiting there a couple days more and there was still no news from our agent in Fiji. The weather was ooking like a good window for us to go.
Even in Bora Bora , you can get an rainy, overcast day …
So we decided that October 22 would be our last day in Bora Bora. So we went to get another RAT test, to send to Fiji in hopes of obtaining their permit to enter. This time we even got it certified by the medical center. To go to shore, we had to get all our wet weather gear to ride on the dinghy to a nice restaurant for what could be our last meal on land in a long time. If they don’t let us stop in Fiji, we migh have to sail straight to Australia.
I was tempted to cancel, we arrived drenched!! But nicely dressed under our weather gear
It was really funny, when we arrived. All the people was dress very nice for a posh restaurant, and as we arrived by sea, we were literattly in the side view. Everyone arrives by land on the opposite side.
The restaurant was amazing, with great food and fantastic service. They even had a place to hang our wet weather gear, which was a nice touch (Look at the back). After dinner, we stayed and talked with the owner, who kindly offered his driver to take me back to the boat. Cedric left on the dinghy, and I was picked up in the bay where Happy Days was anchored. Fortunately, it had stopped raining, and I stayed dry all the way.
It is really complex and I am so disapointed. With so many islands on the way from here to Australia I was thinking we could stop on the way, a couple of times at least. But the reality now is very different. There are still restrictions everywhere.
| New caledonia (french territory) | closed- even for french citizens with fench boat |
| Cook Islands | closed |
| Samoa | closed |
| Tonga | closed |
| Vauatu | closed |
| New Zealand | closed |
| Fiji | open under special restrcitions. Our only option get there on “transit” |
The next morning, on October 23 at 6:00 am, we said goodbye to Bora Bora and set sail for Maupiti, a small island with a lagoon 27 nautical miles east. We were supposed to stay only a couple of days here, quick visit, COVID test and go. The weather was looking good for us to leave in 4 days or so. But we ended up staying 10 days in Bora Bora doing multiple test and waitting for Fiji to reply who is not refused. But it was great, I’m glad we had those extra days to enjoy a bit more of the lagoon.
If the weather is favorable, we plan to make a stop in Maupiti for a couple of nights, where we can hopefully hear back from Fiji and wait for better weather before continuing. However, if the weather turns bad, the small pass into the lagoon might become impassable, forcing us to continue sailing. Another potential stop along the way is Mopelia, a small atoll located west of Maupiti. Although the pass is even smaller than Maupiti’s and the population is only 10 people, we might consider stopping there if the conditions are right. However, it’s highly unlikely, but we will keep our options open.
At this point, we are on day 40 of our 100-day journey to Australia, and we are still on track to make it there for Christmas.
And look at this, someone is getting brand new sunglasses to come onboard and sail with us when we get to Australia.
Happy Days 